LongWeekend:TheUltimateOldMontrealGetawayGuide
Day 1: Getting your bearings
You’ve just dropped your bags off at one of the neighbourhood’s many delightful boutique hotels. It’s now time to explore Old Montreal’s must-see attractions and start finding your way around.
To steer you in the right direction, know that the SDC Vieux-Montréal has set up practical terminals throughout the historic district, featuring a map of the area for an informative, well-explained overview that is sure to make things a whole lot easier for you!
Due to its size and layout, the old quarter is best explored on foot or by bike, so if you don’t have the right shoes to tackle both the cobblestones and the kilometres, this would be a good time to stop by Le Walk-In for their Birkenstock sandals or mid-season clog collection. Other great options include Felix (we like to grab a nice cup of coffee at the same time while here, one of the many things we love about this boutique) and Sandrini, specializing in shoes a little more on the dressy side, but without compromising on comfort.
Not to be missed among Old Montreal’s emblematic buildings are the Notre-Dame Basilica – a smaller-scale replica of the one in Paris – the Marché Bonsecours, which houses a few select charming boutiques and cafés, and one of the city’s very first skyscrapers, the iconic Aldred Building, completed in 1931. A few centuries of history can’t be summed up so easily, however, and that’s where the expert guides at Guidatour come in, true keepers of the neighbourhood’s past as much as its legends. Book a tour now to discover the wonders of the historic district with a more discerning eye!
Once you’ve been properly regaled by the captivating tales of Old Montreal, a lunch break will definitely be in order. The options here are plentiful and, weather permitting, don’t hesitate to take your pick from our list of excellent terrasses across the neighbourhood for a little kicking back and enjoying al fresco! For a quick meal, think submarines at Franklin’s Subs and Suds, sandwiches at Café Caffeino, pizza at Quattro, or salads at Mandy’s.
Weather looking good in the afternoon? Be sure to take advantage of the historic district’s outdoor exhibitions! Old Montreal is revisiting past and current events at Château Ramezay with “Old Montreal: At the Heart of Things”, while the Expo World Press Photo is putting the spotlight on acclaimed documentary photographer Charles-Frédérick Ouellet and his series “Le Naufrage”. Want to see more? The complete exhibition will be running until October 14 at the Marché Bonsecours, marking its 17th edition in Montreal!
The skies look a little iffy, or perhaps the spirit is simply moving you? Time to take a tour of the sewers! The old ones, of course, in the basement of the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, where you’re in for a behind-the-scenes look at Montreal’s underbelly as it was over the centuries. If you happen to be in the area before September 15, definitely don’t miss out on the museum’s one-of-a-kind and fascinating exhibition, “Olmecs and the Civilizations of the Gulf of Mexico”.
End your first afternoon with a well-earned pedicure at LyLy Studio Nails & Spa, a new addition to the old quarter that is already one of our favourite little spots and a must-stop between a visit to the neighbourhood and hitting that dance floor!
A number of Old Montreal establishments feature live music and concerts, the promise of a swinging evening to remember. Head to Modavie and enjoy its signature French bistro vibe, or Jardin Nelson for a chic dinnertime atmosphere with live jazz in their lush courtyard. Another great option is Bord’elle, a restaurant that later turns into a bar and nightclub with burlesque shows evoking the roaring 20s, a good-time speakeasy that’s yours to discover!
More the classical music and intimate setting type? Candlelight – candlelit concerts held in truly exceptional venues – is putting on numerous enchanting performances in one of the historic district’s most beloved buildings. An original as well as magical way to (re)discover the beautiful Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel!
Day 2: Like a local
Kick your morning off at Café Olimpico; you’ll thank us for braving the lineup to enjoy one of the simply excellent coffees at this Montreal institution. Ah, Italian expertise meets Old Montreal charm!
Need a hearty breakfast to start your day on the good foot? Olive et Gourmando has your back with their signature sconewich (a sandwich done with a scone instead of bread in which you’ll find, much to your delight, 3-year-old cheddar, natural ham and peach jam) or their “Banoffee” French toast, served exclusively on weekends. Fancy a classic 2 eggs and bacon? Say hello to Allô mon Coco!
Now it’s time to take your time, and that means strolling through the many galleries on Saint-Paul Street. We often forget that, alongside museums, art galleries provide for a dynamic insight into the Canadian, as well as international, arts scene. Free admission and sometimes you even leave with a stunning work of art under your arm, but we also go just to discover the unique and ever-changing selections on display.
Don’t forget to punctuate your Old Montreal excursion with a little well-deserved gourmet break here and there! And when it comes to refreshment, we just so happen to have a whole list of recommendations for our very favourite fun and original summertime drinks!
If you find yourself enveloped by the wonderful scent of eucalyptus on the corner of Saint-Sulpice and Saint-Paul, you’re not dreaming. Scandinave Spa is right around the corner, inviting you to immerse yourself in an unforgettable thermal experience, from invigorating baths to relaxing massages, all within the heart of its old stone walls. Forgot to bring your bathing suit? Not a problem, because they sell them at the entrance, or else another great option is Mimi & August, where you’re guaranteed to find everything you need!
For some serious unwinding, the 5 à 7 way, do like the locals do and head for a drink at Marché des Éclusiers, a glass of natural wine at Buvette Pastek, or a fresh pint of craft beer at Bistro-Brasserie Les Soeurs Grises.
When it comes to fine dining, Old Montreal has more than earned its stripes and undeniably deserves the reputation it enjoys. If you would like to stick with the Italian note on which your day so delightfully began, we recommend Dinette Marcella without a moment’s hesitation. In the mood to spoil yourself? L’Auberge Saint-Gabriel and its late-night speakeasy, Velvet, are just the ticket. Looking for some luxury and escape? Loam is your little corner of paradise. How about a discreet yet lavish experience made for gourmets? Le Bonaparte masterfully renders the classics of French cuisine, and we can’t recommend their tasting menu enough, also available with wine pairings.
If the culinary scene shines bright in Old Montreal, the nightlife here is a veritable disco ball! Dare to push open the door at La Voûte and plunge into a former bank vault turned… dance floor! If conversation over cocktails is more your thing, The Coldroom, Grotto, Negroni Room or Vandale are where you’ll find yourself decidedly wowed by mixologists as creative as they are talented.
Day 3: Before you go
Brunch is most definitely a must to crown your weekend visit, so head on over to Pangea for their “Boozy Brunch” menu, a $42 option served until 5 PM. In other words, absolutely zero stress for all you late risers out there! Waffles, pancakes, fried chicken sandwich, each choice served with a “Pangeamosa”, fresh fruit and Greek-style roasted potatoes. Brasserie 701, for its part, is offering up a scrumptious brunch selection including the likes of eggs Benedict, delicious omelettes, and, bien sûr, croque-monsieur. Oh, and replacing your coffee with an espresso martini here is obviously a move we wholeheartedly support.
You can count on us to remind you to send a postcard or two from the historic quarter to add a little personal and heartfelt touch to your “vacation” experience. Take a seat in one of the many rest areas and “parklets” available all summer long to write up those inspired and loving words, and then off you go! Next up, we hunt for souvenirs! Nüspace offers “Old Montreal” candles, Le Magasin Général sells tote bags featuring the neighbourhood’s iconic buildings, Marché Saint Laurent has hoodies, caps and rainwear that put our city in the spotlight, and Bonjour Montréal features illustrated posters depicting the many beautiful facades of Old Montreal. For gifts made in Quebec, stop by L’Empreinte, Mon Shack au Québec or La Cour des Arts. Finally, for the gastronomically inclined, make sure you don’t leave without some goodies from Chez Potier, as adept in fine preserves as they are in fresh pastries, some superb craft beers from BreWskey, and, to top things off, a few sweet treats courtesy of Le Petit Dep.
One last meal before you leave town or start up a whole new workweek? Take full advantage of being by the water and savour dishes from the local “merroir”, featuring Quebec products of outstanding quality. At Chez Delmo, whether you opt for fresh lobster, scallops or a seafood platter, you’ll understand why we recommend this institution after your very first bite. On the ceviche side of things, Seasalt does an outstanding rendition with passion fruit, yuzu and coconut milk, an original and uncompromisingly fresh take on this much-loved dish. Also on the menu, the grilled octopus and their mussels and fries of the day are seriously worth considering. Seriously, we’re serious.
Photos: Sara Megan
NOTA BENE: Your business would fit perfectly here but isn’t mentioned? Don’t hesitate to write to us at [email protected], and it would be our pleasure to include it.
